At the southwest corner of Washington Square Park, carved concrete chessboards form a quiet circle beneath swaying trees, where the golden afternoon light lingers like memory. This beloved “Chess Plaza” — featuring 15 built‑in stone tables arranged in a ring — is more than just a game space; it’s a pulse of New York life: students, tourists, and neighborhood regulars gathering around battles of mind and speed. The game here isn’t always leisurely — it’s fast, fierce, and social.

Street chess flourished on the sidewalks of Greenwich Village in the 1960s and ’70s, with figures like Bobby Hayward innovating sidewalk hustling and legends like Bobby Fischer, Kamran Shirazi, Joel Benjamin, and, even filmmaker Stanley Kubrick, showing up to play. The scene also spilled into pop culture through films like Searching for Bobby Fischer (1993) and Fresh (1994), immortalizing the plaza’s gritty grace.

Washington Square Park’s renowned chess tradition is not just about play — it’s a self‑governed slice of community life. Into this vibrant ring steps Johnny O’Leary, aka Johnny Chess. A Bronx resident and Greenwich Village local, he turned to the park after a knee injury left him navigating life with crutches. Since 1991 he’s been lightning fast on the board and generous off it, beloved for teaching children and welcoming beginners. He plays blitz chess not just as sport, but as performance — as social art:

Art-Sôlido: How did your relationship with Washington Square Park begin?


Johnny Chess: It’s my home. Every day I ride the subway from the Bronx—about an hour—but I know I’m really here when I see someone like you sitting across from my table. And when we play, no one loses. At my table, everyone wins—because when you lose, you learn, you meet someone new, and in the end, we both win. That’s why there are no losers at Johnny’s table.

ô: When did you start playing here?


JC: I started in 1991. The community was already strong, and over time I became part of it. I’ve been here over 30 years—everyone knows me. I’ve got followers worldwide.

ô: I always see you at the same corner and the same table—is this your table? How does that work?


JC: It is what it is. This is a public park—anyone can come and bring their board. I respect others and they respect me. It can feel territorial, but everyone knows I’m Johnny Chess, the king of this jungle.

ô: Have you seen changes in the neighborhood since you started?


JC: When I arrived, times were tougher. Now it’s much better and more beautiful. People from all over the world come here—friendly folks who want to share, play, or learn. At the end of the day, we all learn together.

ô: If someone wants to play with you, what should they do? What are the rules?

JC: They just sit down and we’ll play. I can teach too—that’s something we do a lot. If later they choose to tip, they’re welcome. We earn a living this way.

ô: If a tourist or visitor wants to play with you, do they need to speak English?


JC: No—chess is a universal language. I’ve played with people from every part of the world. Everyone’s welcome.

ô: Any memorable matches or people you’ve played with?

JC: I’ve made friends from all over the world and even played with grandmasters. One match stands out: I played against Pia Cramling.¹ At first, I didn’t know who she was—but from the very first move, I felt her strength across the board. It was hilarious — there’s a video of it on YouTube with millions of views. Look it up, you’ll see!²

ô: The New York Times also featured you in one of their stories

JC: Yes! I’m sitting right at this table on the cover of The New York Times. I may not be a grandmaster, but I’m a Social Master. I love the game, but even more, I love its social side — teaching, making friends every day. That’s the beauty of chess. Remember: Johnny Chess — the one and only.
 

---

 1.    Pia Cramling is a Swedish chess grandmaster known for being one of the strongest female players in the world for decades. She has been the highest-rated woman in the FIDE World Rankings on three occasions. She is also the mother of chess player and streamer Anna Cramling.

2.